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San Fermin is crazy, an indescribable emotion. ON 6th
of July, at twelve midday, thousands of young people
congregate in the Town Hall square. Many other people
concentrate in the Plaza del Castillo or in the nearby streets
to jump for joy when the Rocket is fired (Chupinazo) and with
the “Viva San Fermín, Gora San Fermín” (long live San
Fermin).
The city goes mad, champagne flows. Dressed in white,
everyone ties, as best they can, a red scarf around their
neck. Awaiting them are 9 days of joy, wildness, bulls, bull
running, music, fireworks... The fiestas are so long awaited
that the people from Navarre sing “1 de enero, 2 de febrero,
3 de marzo..”
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(1st of January, 2nd of
February, 3rd of March) throughout the year. On
these days, called the “staircase” groups of people or peñas
celebrate the fact that San Fermin is getting nearer.
ON 7th July, Pamplona will be moved by the
procession of San Fermin and the day of the Child, where the young
children take flowers to the saint.
San Fermín is all over Pamplona. The days are animated
and full of light, bustling terraces. The procession of giants and big
heads are fun for the small children. Jotas, regional dances, salsa,
painters, sellers, and mime take hold of the streets.
The bull
fighting is around five o’clock. Bull fighting fans come to see the
best bull fighters and herds, and also the young people from the
different clubs or peñas,
with towels, hats, buckets of sangría, and elaborate meals to be
eaten after the third bull. For them, the least important part is what
is happening in the bull ring.
At 11 o’clock at night, the magic of the fireworks
begins, lit from the Citadel. And afterwards, everyone is ensured a
good time. Dressed in white, with a red scarf, there is street music
to dance to, people from all over the world who want to enjoy
themselves, bars open non stop... an incredible atmosphere.
However, everything ends on 14th July in the
Town Hall square with two songs. One sad song “Pobre de mí, pobre
de mí que se han acabado las fiestas de San Fermín” (Poor me, the
San Fermin Fiestas have ended) and one cheerful one that makes
everyone dance “Ya falta menos, ya falta menos, p’a San Fermín”
(The next San Fermin festival is getting closer).
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THE
ENCIERRO
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| It’s just a few minutes to eight o’clock. At the Cuesta
de Santo Domingo (the slope of Santo Domingo), holding a rolled
newspaper, the runners face the black Saint’s statue. They sing to
him three times “A San Fermín, pedimos, por ser nuestro patrón,
nos guíe en el encierro, dándonos su bendición” (We ask San Fermin, our patron saint, to guide us in the bull
running,
by giving
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| us his blessing). A few seconds after the last
song, the rocket is fired and the cattle pen doors open. Navarre holds
its breath.
With force and strength, the bulls come out onto the
848 metre fenced route: Town Hall Square, Mercaderes, Estafeta. The
bulls each weigh around half a ton, with sharp horns and power in
their stately figure. Another rocket informs everyone that the bulls
have left the pen.
Surrounded by runners, the animals advance. Some slip
up, others butt in the direction of the pavements. The mozos or young men run, jumping over anyone who has fallen over; if
a bull turns back along the route they do everything possible to make
it go in the right direction. If everything goes OK, in three
minutes’ time the bulls reach the ring and a rocket is fired when
the last bull enters the ring. They are taken to the bull pens. The
final rocket is fired and the whole of Navarre breaths again.
Thousands of people from Navarre, lovers of the bull
running, come to see it live or, wherever they are, they get up to see
it on the television. They passionately follow an exciting encierro or bull running which is in response to a medieval custom
when the cattle farmers used to bring the bulls over the hills for the
bull fights. At dawn, on the day of the bullfight, with the help of
the shepherds, tame cows and leading oxen, they would take the bulls
through the streets towards the Square used for the bull fighting.
Back in the 19C the Pamplonicas or people from Pamplona began to run in front of the
animals, creating a rite that is still maintained today.
Experienced runners have a good night’s sleep, they
train and know what to do. The greatest danger is not the bull, but
the many incautious people who want to run but are still under the
effects of alcohol. Many have not ever seen a bull in their life. In
all, thirteen people have died in the bull running with more than 200
people gored. So, take care, if you’re not an expert runner, it’s
best to stay behind the fence or watch on TV.
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