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| ROUTES - Land of Estella | |
| Ribera - Central Area - Central Area: East - Between the gorges - Roncal Valley - Roncesvalles/Irati - Atlantic Pyrenees - Aralar/Ulzama - Land of Estella - Pamplona | |
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The area of Estella is the symbol of
historic localities, exquisite wines and the harmony of the Urbasa and Andía
Sierras, with one peculiarity: both Sierras are common property that is, any
one from Navarre can use them free of charge and, on request, will receive
his/her lot of firewood. Leave by the N111 Logroño road going through the mountain pass of El Perdón, with its windmills. |
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Pass through Puente La Reina to reach Estella, and go round it until you reach a crossroads where you will turn to the town centre, Vitoria and San Sebastián. Leaving Estella take the NA 120 road to San Sebastian via Etxarri-Aranaz and, at Abárzuza, take a road which, 4 kilometres along, takes you to the Monastery of Irantzu. The monastery lies in the middle of a beautiful gorge
carved by the river, although it is Benedictine in origin, in the 12C it
became important with the Cistercians. Today you can admire its church with
three naves and ribbed vaults, the gothic cloisters, the chapter house and
kitchen.
You should then head to
Estella, a beautiful historic
city which is well worth a visit. The same is true for Puente la Reina. After leaving Puente, take the turning to Obanos and
the charming hermitage of Santa María de Eunate, with an octagonal floor
plan and an evocative framed porch. We would advise you to return to the road from Puente or go via Muruzabal and Uterga to the N111. |
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THE HERMITAGE OF EUNATE |
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Eunate is a beautiful
hermitage, offering the
simplicity and charm of its octagonal floor plan and a precious arched
gallery or exterior cloisters. The surroundings are flat and
calm, covered with grain
fields and vineyards. Eunate is part of a legend. The fact is there is
confusion over its origin. Although it appears that it was constructed by
noblemen of Valdizarbe after a pilgrimage to Jerusalem, it is said that it
pertained to the Templars or that it was a church-lighthouse, with a
constantly shining light to guide pilgrims at nightfall. Located right on the Way to St James, Eunate has been a
place to welcome and give shelter to pilgrims and even many, exhausted, were
buried there. This temple is a 13C Romanesque
whim. Its portal, apse
and chapters show defiant and mysterious faces and monstrous wild animals.
In its peculiar octagonal structure you can discover the symbols of the
principal stone masons of the time. Moreover, you should not miss the
details of the marvellous arched gallery and its varied capitals. Eunate means one hundred doors in the Basque language
(eun-ate)
and well born in Latin (eu-nato). Whatever its meaning, if you go through
the doors of the hermitage you will find that it is very nice inside with
quadrangular ribbed vaults evoking Arabian architecture. There is a pilgrimage to Eunate to ask for
prosperity,
water and the eradication of plagues. Apart from that, many other people
visit for esoteric reasons, since Eunate has been attributed with this power. Obanos is located very close to Eunate. It is a beautiful locality, the headquarters in the 12C of the Order of the Infanzones, noblemen who fought possible abuses committed by the kings. Every summer, the inhabitants of Obanos perform the play of the Mystery of Obanos. An act recounting the tragedy of San Guillén and Santa Felicia, a young duke from Aquitaine who could not bear to think of his noble sister dedicating her life to caring for the poor, and so killed her. Repentant, the duke retired to the nearby hermitage of Arnotegui. It is a very careful performance set in the historic square of Obanos |
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ESTELLA: THE CITY OF THE RIVER EGA |
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Estella is overflowing with
history. Every nook,
building or church of this historic town is full of art. Estella was constructed in 1090 by King Sancho Ramírez on the Basque village of Lizarra, in order to give assistance to the pilgrims. Thus the former Lizarra marked the start of an important development on the very road to St James. The Franks arrived and, amongst the inhabitants, a great number or Jews settled, making Estella an important Jewish centre. Its key geographical position, at a point where the Mountains joined the Ribera, or Ebro valley, made it an important trading centre. |
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In the 19C, Estella, the bastion of the Carlist doctrine, was named capital of the Carlist State and even had ministers and its own penal code. As you must inevitably select which works of art to
see,
you could start with the square of San Martín. Here the Palace of the Kings
of Navarre, constructed in the 12C and the sole example of lay Romanesque
construction in Navarre, is today the Gustavo de Maeztu Museum. The 18C Regional Courts are located next to the flight
of steps. If you go up them, you will see the Church of San Pedro de la Rúa,
a Cistercian 12C building with a beautiful portal and Romanesque cloisters. In the street Calle
de la Rúa there is a plateresque palace of Fray Diego de Estella (today
a Community Centre), the Palace of the Governor and the simple Bridge of the
Prison or San Agustín. The Gothic church of the Santo Sepulcro
(Holy Sepulchre),
the gothic convent of Santo Domingo and the Romanesque church of Santa María
Jus del Castillo, also await you. And there are still other marvellous places such as the
church of San Martín, the plaza de los Fueros square and the square of
Santiago, where an important craft market is held every Thursday: ceramics,
material, ironwork, hides, wood... A mention should be made of the church of San Juan, the
Convent of Recoletas, the 20C Basilica of the Virgen del Puy, the convent of
Santa Clara and the church of Our Lady of Rocamador. With regard to the cuisine, you can enjoy roast suckling pig and three denominations of origin: Idiazábal cheese, red peppers from Lodosa and wines registered in the Rioja Denomination of Origin. Many of these Bodegas are open to visitors. |
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PUENTE LA
REINA/GARÉS |
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“And from here all the roads to Santiago
(St James)
become one”. This is the sign on the Pilgrim’s Monument welcoming you.
And this is quite true: At Puente la Reina the route crossing the Pyrenees
via Somport joins with the one coming from Valcarlos. Puente la Reina owes its name to a magnificent
Romanesque stone bridge, built before the town. The story goes that it was
commissioned by a queen; others claim that the original word was not Regina,
but Runa, the old name for the river Arga. |
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Today, it boasts six semi-circular arches of different widths, and one more underground.This beautiful bridge was constructed in the first half of the 11C to enable pilgrims to cross the river. Today, it boasts six semi-circular arches of different widths, and one more underground. Some small arches carved into the stone enable the water to pass through when the river is high. The bridge is adorned by the lovely legend of el Txori, a little bird that washed the face of the Virgin with water from the river, carried in its beak. Puente la Reina, a vital crossroads soon became
financially and culturally rich. Evidence of this is the late Romanesque
church of the Crucifijo (crucifix) constructed by the templars in the middle
of the 12C, housing the 12C Virgin with Child and a beautiful y-shaped
gothic crucifix, brought from Germany. The street Calle
Mayor is both street and art: popular architecture with emblazoned
houses, palaces, craft shops... The church of Santiago el Mayor, built at the end of
the 12C and reconstructed during the 15C, shows its Roman portal and the
gothic carvings of San Bartolomé and Santiago Beltza, so called due to the
fact that it was black in colour before being restored. After passing through the charming Plaza Mayor, close
to the bridge there is the church of San Pedro and the convent of
Comendadoras de Sancti Spiritus. With regard to cuisine, you will be offered white or red beans, roast pork or lamb and, in the hunting season, quail, hare or partridge and excellent wines from Valdizarbe, the rosé wine in particular. |
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